So you're building a garage...

Things you'll want

• Compressor
• Parts washer
• Pressure washer

Wiring stuff...

• Lights -- the more the better. Have at least one that is switched inside the house if you have a detached garage.
• Phone -- with a pen/pencil permanently attached nearby.
• Power -- You'll need 220V for the compressor and for a welder you will probably want 220V 50Amps or a stove plug. And you will want to have both on at the same time. Put a 220V outlet near the car door so you can weld things in driveway.
• Install a circuit breaker box in garage. (It's easier to get to when you trip a breaker).
• Put your 120V outlets on separate circuit from lights. (So you aren't in darkness when you trip a breaker). Spread them around so you don't need long extension cords.
• consider running a large conduit between the house and the garage to permit running phone lines, TV cable, switched wires, alarm systems, air lines, etc. at a later date.
• Install an alarm system to protect your toys.

Compressor hints

• Make sure it's big enough. Look at the SCFM rating of the tools you want to use, and make sure your compressor is capable of running them.
• Locate your compressor outside your shop and put a small roof over it, but do allow lots of ventilation around it. You'll be glad to get the heat and noise out of the shop!
• Use 3/8 pipe throughout. PVC is available up to 300 PSI, but if it does burst it turns into shrapnel.
• Install "horizontal" runs of air line (in walls or attic) with a slope towards the compressor (you want to drain water away from the outlets). Make sure that the pipe is sloped as constantly as possible (i.e. no 'relative' low points which will hold water). Slope should be 1" per 4' of horizontal run.
• Connect the compressor via flexible, non-heat conducting pipe to a water trap/filter. My filter sits in a bucket which can be filled with ice water to help condense out moisture.
• Use an automatic water drain on the tank (spurts on every pressure cycle); also incorporate a manual drain for those times when you need to manual drain it!
• Use a decoupler hose (reinforced hose coupling) between your compressor and where it connects into the shop wall; this will also reduce vibration noises into your shop walls.
• For the drops from the attic to the shop, use galvanized pipe (it will help the moisture to condense out of the air).
• Place drops at each likely point you will need air; as a minimum one on each side of your shop (if not each wall), AND one at your beadblasting cabinet. I would also suggest a drop at the front of your shop for airing up tires of cars in the driveway, etc.
• Each drop should consist of a downpipe and a 'T' connection. From the 'T' come 6"-1' horizontally to your outlet. Place a 2-3' length down from the 'T' with a drain valve for collecting water. (Use the 'quick' handles for the drain valve instead of the 'water faucet' handles).
• Each outlet should be planned for what you want to do with it. All outlets should have a water separater/dryer and regulator and a female quick coupler.
• Plan for specific outlets for running air tools and other outlets for painting, sandblasting, beadblasting, etc. Use an automatic oiler for those outlets planned to run air tools. Do not use an oiler on your clean air outlets... (:^)
• You should also think about whether you should use 1/4" or 3/8" couplers; most air tools will work great with 1/4" outlets and they are cheaper and more convenient. But you should use 3/8" couplers for the sand blaster, and bead blaster to get more air with less drop.

Ventilation

• Be able to blow air into the garage from a known point (fan in window). This way you can filter it, and put positive pressure on the garage. This is a bad idea for an attached garage, though.
• Be able to suck air from the garage from a known point. Again, a fan in the window.
• Make exhaust vents for car exhaust pipes (use dryer ducts).
• Lots of windows for light and ventilation. Also lots of fans.
• Install a furnace or heater. Either electric or outside the garage to prevent fires.

Construction

• Go to the lumberyard and buy one or several 4'x8' sheets of pegboard. Nail 'em to the studs for hanging tools, extension cords, or whatever. Pegboard comes with 2 size holes, 1/4" for big stuff and 3/16" for little stuff. The pegs are sized correspondingly. The 1/4" pegs fit the holes much tighter IMHO.
• Consider using two layers of concrete blocks and building an 8 ft. wall on the blocks to get a 10 ft high garage. This prevents rotting of the walls, allows washing garage with hose, and prevents water from flooding in.
• On a double car garage, get a single large door. This will allow lots of room on each side with the project parked in the middle.
• Install an extra car door in the back of the garage for access to the backyard, and ventilation. Put it directly across from the main door so you can drive straight through.
• One door extra high. If you have a conversion van, it will not fit in many normal garage doors. Go for an 8 ft. or 10 ft door height on at least one door.
• If the floor is brand new, consider painting it. Look in the Granger catalog for paints. There are paints in there that can survive a mild oil fire!!!. Cleanup is easy and this will allow you to move heavy things just by sliding them on the floor. It the concrete is dirty or old, you may be able to clean it. But if you don't do a perfect job the paint won't stick and you end up with peeling paint - a worse mess IMHO.
• Cabinets! It's very cool to look into a garage and not see anything lying around. Old kitchen cabinets are great to hold books, tools and everything. Also keeps them away from prying hands. Number the doors and drawers so you can tell someone else exactly where a tool is while you are lying under the car.
• Paint the inside white.
• Have a high ceiling. This will allow for lofts and a lift.
• Include a loft area for storage. Be sure to use real stairs to get to the loft (the attic type is too light for carrying transmissions).
• Make it deeper than you would normally expect. Most compacts are 15' long and need 20' to work around, a truck like a Suburban or Crew Cab will be closer to 24' long with 30' needed to work around it.
• Fiberglass car doors are lighter and allow light through.
• Steel car doors are better for security.
• Install a drain in the floor.
• Slope floor towards the car door.
• Have a level section of floor for alignments.
• Install water and a large wash-up sink in the garage. Your significant other will be happier.
• At least one large, heavy workbench. A "detailing station" with lots of light and a clean (formica?) surface. A "clean room" away from messy equipment for assembling engines, etc.
• Install a lift or a pit.
• Have one heavy beam to attach your chain hoist to. Put a trolley on it so you can move the engine to the engine stand without having to move the car.
• Install tie down bolts in the floor. That way you can winch a car into the garage or pull parts. Use long, heavy bolts and a plate embedded into the concrete while pouring if possible.
• Don't forget the parts washer.